Index
Vacuum thoroughly.
All Dri Wash 'n Guard products referenced below are available at the following link:
Videos at http://www.dri-wash.us/eti/driwash_video_library.htm
The only cleaning products that ever touch our Roadster's top are original Dri Wash 'n GuardR, DWG Upholstery, Fabric & Carpet Treatment and DWG All Weather Tire Treatment. For cleaning (inside and out) we use high quality Micro Fiber towels.
Important- The only places we recommend using regular Micro Fiber towels is for convertible tops and cloth interiors. The only Micro Fiber towel that should touch your Corvette's exterior is the DWG Buffing Towel. The DWG Buffing Towel is the only Micro Fiber towel we tested that will not feather scratch soft clear coat finishes. Quality white terry cloth wash cloths work well too. If you choose to use terry cloths, spend a few extradollars for good ones so they won't be shedding lint, especially if your top is black or another dark color.
Wet a clean micro fiber/ terry with tap water and wring it near dry. Mist DWG Upholstery/Fabric/Carpet on a 2 ft. x 2 ft. section of the top. Draw the damp micro fiber/terry across the section you just misted. Check your micro fiber/ terry for dirt and discoloration. If soiled change to a clean section and draw across the section again. Now switch to cross grain (other
direction) and draw across section yet again. Buff completed section with a clean dry terry. Work small sections until you have cleaned the tops entire surface. Always discard dirty micro fiber/terries (for washing later) so you are not smearing dirt from place to place.
It takes only a light misting of DWG Fabric/Upholstery to do an outstanding job so use sparingly. The keys are to turn or change micro fiber/terries often, wet micro fiber/terry with tap water and wring it to get drawing effect then draw or pull the micro fiber/terry across your top in two different directions (cross grain) followed by buffing with a clean, dry terry. For in-between cleanings use a damp (tap water) micro fiber/terry and draw across the fabric in both directions followed by a light buffing.
In some instances you may have a stain from diesel oil, a bird dropping, etc on your convertible top that needs a little more attention to remove. Clean your Corvette's entire top as outlined above first. Then, with a soft bristled brush (a soft tooth brush or hand brush works well), work DWG Fabric/Upholstery into the stain. (Be sure the brush is soft so you don't mark or damage the canvas). You will create some foaming at this point.
Use a clean, damp micro fiber/terry to frequently blot the spot. When the stain is gone you will have a wet spot. Leave your top up until the spot has dried.
For your Corvette's rear window (plastic or glass makes no difference) we use original Dri Wash 'n GuardR. IMPORTANT! Do not spray from the AIRosol applicator directly onto the window. YOU DO NOT WANT OVER-SPRAY ON YOUR ROADSTER CONVERTIBLE TOP's FABRIC. Instead, spray a small amount of DWG on the corner of a terry and apply the DWG with your terry to window, being careful not to get any on your tops fabric. (You can clean a slipsy from your top's fabric with DWG Upholstery/Fabric cleaner but try not to get DWG on the fabric.) Buff with a clean terry. You'll be amazed. This works especially well to sharpen up plastic windows.
All that's left is to apply DRI WASH 'n GUARDR All Weather Tire Treatment to your tops rubber weather-stripping several times a year. Don't spay it on, instead use a corner of a clean rag, wipe on and using a second cloth, wipe off. Be careful not to get Tire Treatment on the fabric.
Also, the best sprayer for the bottles are from Griot's Garage They are not very expensive and work perfectly.
Vacuum thoroughly.
All Dri Wash 'n Guard products referenced below are available at the following link:
Videos at http://www.dri-wash.us/eti/driwash_video_library.htm
The only cleaning products that ever touch our Roadster's top are original Dri Wash 'n GuardR, DWG Upholstery, Fabric & Carpet Treatment and DWG All Weather Tire Treatment. For cleaning (inside and out) we use high quality Micro Fiber towels.
Important- The only places we recommend using regular Micro Fiber towels is for convertible tops and cloth interiors. The only Micro Fiber towel that should touch your Corvette's exterior is the DWG Buffing Towel. The DWG Buffing Towel is the only Micro Fiber towel we tested that will not feather scratch soft clear coat finishes. Quality white terry cloth wash cloths work well too. If you choose to use terry cloths, spend a few extradollars for good ones so they won't be shedding lint, especially if your top is black or another dark color.
Wet a clean micro fiber/ terry with tap water and wring it near dry. Mist DWG Upholstery/Fabric/Carpet on a 2 ft. x 2 ft. section of the top. Draw the damp micro fiber/terry across the section you just misted. Check your micro fiber/ terry for dirt and discoloration. If soiled change to a clean section and draw across the section again. Now switch to cross grain (other
direction) and draw across section yet again. Buff completed section with a clean dry terry. Work small sections until you have cleaned the tops entire surface. Always discard dirty micro fiber/terries (for washing later) so you are not smearing dirt from place to place.
It takes only a light misting of DWG Fabric/Upholstery to do an outstanding job so use sparingly. The keys are to turn or change micro fiber/terries often, wet micro fiber/terry with tap water and wring it to get drawing effect then draw or pull the micro fiber/terry across your top in two different directions (cross grain) followed by buffing with a clean, dry terry. For in-between cleanings use a damp (tap water) micro fiber/terry and draw across the fabric in both directions followed by a light buffing.
In some instances you may have a stain from diesel oil, a bird dropping, etc on your convertible top that needs a little more attention to remove. Clean your Corvette's entire top as outlined above first. Then, with a soft bristled brush (a soft tooth brush or hand brush works well), work DWG Fabric/Upholstery into the stain. (Be sure the brush is soft so you don't mark or damage the canvas). You will create some foaming at this point.
Use a clean, damp micro fiber/terry to frequently blot the spot. When the stain is gone you will have a wet spot. Leave your top up until the spot has dried.
For your Corvette's rear window (plastic or glass makes no difference) we use original Dri Wash 'n GuardR. IMPORTANT! Do not spray from the AIRosol applicator directly onto the window. YOU DO NOT WANT OVER-SPRAY ON YOUR ROADSTER CONVERTIBLE TOP's FABRIC. Instead, spray a small amount of DWG on the corner of a terry and apply the DWG with your terry to window, being careful not to get any on your tops fabric. (You can clean a slipsy from your top's fabric with DWG Upholstery/Fabric cleaner but try not to get DWG on the fabric.) Buff with a clean terry. You'll be amazed. This works especially well to sharpen up plastic windows.
All that's left is to apply DRI WASH 'n GUARDR All Weather Tire Treatment to your tops rubber weather-stripping several times a year. Don't spay it on, instead use a corner of a clean rag, wipe on and using a second cloth, wipe off. Be careful not to get Tire Treatment on the fabric.
Also, the best sprayer for the bottles are from Griot's Garage They are not very expensive and work perfectly.
I believe you cannot rinse a car too much before washing it. I have a 1 inch hose I purchased from Griot's Garage that gives me some major water pressure. This helps to loosen any bugs, heavy dirt, etc... prior to washing
The trick here is to use something that is gentle on your car's current finish. You do not want to be striping off all traces of wax or polish every time you wash. Because I use the entire Zaino car polish treatment on my C5, I use Zaino's Z-7 Show Car Wash. It contains no detergents and does deteriorate the Z-2 polish.
That same 1 inch hose from Griot's Garage comes into play here again. However, this time is use it without the nozzle.
Letting the water run freely from the hose with no nozzle seems to minimize water spots for me. It is also helpful if you can get someone else to rinse
the car for you as you wash. Keeping water flowing over the car right up
until the point you want to dry also minimizes the chances for water
spots.
I have more little ritual I go through be for I actually start to dry
the car. I do a final rinse with the PEC Spot Free Spray Bar. According to their web
site, the water is "treated" so it will not leave water spots.
If you have not guesses, I am paranoid about water spots. You can spot a
water spot a mile away on a Crystal Red finish so I try to take every
precaution I can.
Drying the car is another multi-step process.
1. First I use the Original
California Water BladeTM. It removes the large amounts of water very
quickly. I am convinced that the faster you dry the car off, the less
chance for, you guessed it, water spots. I use it on the entire car being
very careful to always go in the same direction. I am also careful to
thoroughly rinse off the blade before using it to make sure there are not
particles left on the blade from its last use. I have read a few post from
folks who do not care for it because they are worried about scratching their finish. I have been using the Water Blade for about 3 years on a Red finish and have noticed NO scratches of any kind. Make sure it is the
California Water Blade though. I have no idea how some of the other brands
on the market may affect you car's finish. I found my Original California
Water Blade at a Corvette show in Spearfish, South Dakota
You can go to this URL, HotRods Superstore, for a good description of the
California Water Blade.
2. Next, I blow dry the car with my leaf blower. I use an electric leaf blower and I use this leaf blower only on my car. This works very well at blowing the excise water out of the mirrors and around the emblems, all of those places that manage to drip on your car later when you drive.
Finally, I cleanup any water still left on the car with the Absorber, something else I found at Eckler's. It soaks up lots of water very quickly. I also have a variety of real and synthetic chamois that I use during the final drying process. The trick to using a chamois or the Absorber is to keep it clean. If it falls on the ground, stop using it until it gets laundered.
I use only 100% white cotton towels by Cannon or Fieldcrest. I have cut the edges off to eliminate a bulky hard edge.
I have only used one polishing product on my 2008 Crystal Red; Dry-Wash & Guard. After the car has been completely dried, I do one panel at a time using Dry-Wash and a small white towel. When dry and a haze appears, I use a large (clean) white towel to remove the haze. The shine is GREAT!
Cleaning my engine is another multi-step process because some of my covers have been custom painted. A little special care when detailing the engine is required.
1. I hose down the entire engine compartment with a high pressure nozzle. This removes most of the dirt. I then spray everything, and I mean everything, with S100 Total Cycle Cleaner "Aerosol". This stuff is available from almost any motorcycle shop and it is amazing. You just spray it on and rinse it off. It cleans all of those small hard to reach spots too.
I clean my engine every time I wash the car so it is never really "dirty". I then attempt to dry as much of the engine as I can.
2. I dry everything, apply some Dry Wash & Guard to the painted stuff, and that's it.
3. A friend in our car club turned my on to this next step. I didn't believe him when he first told me to try this. However, even since I did, it has become a major part of preparing my engine compartment for a show. I clean everything black in the engine compartment with Pledge. Yup, the furniture polish, Pledge. It does a great job or dressing up all of those black pieces.
I also have factory Chrome wheels, not an easy wheel to clean. I have found that Mother's wheel cleaner (in the red jar) works best for me. This is a long process. The wheels have to be cleaned until black stops coming off on the pad. I use a number of different shaped foam pads to clean the wheels.
Next I use Honda Cleaning & Detailing.
When they are clean, I apply a coat of Rejex. This brings out the brilliance Chrome should have!
I use Stoners brand “more Shine, Less Time to clean my tires. I like it because it leaves a more natural finish. It does not leave the tires all glossy, just clean, almost brand new looking.
A friend turned me on to a product called Blue Magic Metal Cleaner that I use on my Corsa Stainless Steel Exhaust. This stuff is great! It does a much better job than wheel cleaner. It makes those exhaust pipes sparkle. The next time and there after I use a product called "Bling Master" with a rag. Then the hard black plastic between the rear fascia and exhaust tips can be cleaned perfectly by applying Lemon Pledge to a clean cloth and wiping it down. Do not spray it on. It is not for paint. The photo below shows the results of cleaning the exhaust tips and plastic.
I always use a shop vacuum that plugs into an outlet. Those portables are nice for quick and dirty touch-up work but they just don't have the power to really clean the carpets in a car. So I pull out all of the mats, vacuum everything I can reach, vacuum the mats outside the car, replace the mats and I'm done.
It now time to clean all of the plastic inside the car. I clean everything (console, door panels, etc...) with Zaino's Z-14 Plastic-Magic Cleaner & Polish. Everything with the exception of the Dash. I absolutely do not use cleaners on my dash. I dust it and if it needs cleaning, I use a soft cloth and warm water. The dash has a non-reflective surface that must be maintained. If you use a cleaner on the dash that leaves a shine you are asking for driving problems.
I usually only clean the leather right before a big show or when something "needs" to be cleaned up. I use Griot's Garage Leather Care Spray (11082), Blue Detailing Sponges (11205) and Micro Fiber Interior Cloths (11080). These products do a very good job without overkill.
I clean and protect the rubber on top of the windshield and the halo on my coupe (with the roof OFF) using “Gummi Pflege Stift” from Pelican Parts, Inc. This stuff works great and is very simple to use.
Finally, at the show, there is all that last minute touch-up. If I have time I will apply a complete coat of Z-2 Pro Polish. If the car looks really good already, I will just touch the car up with Z-6 Gloss Enhancer and Z-8 Grand Finale™ Spray Seal. Before applying Z-6, I dust the entire car with the California Duster. I use the large Duster for the outside and use the small California Duster to clean the interior. I clean the tires with More Shine, Less time, clean all of the windows with Griot's window cleaner clean the wheels with Z-6 and I should be ready for the show. Don't forget to clean and polish any of those extras you bring along for your display. We polish my toolbox, fire extinguisher, and clean the glass on our signs to insure there are no finger marks.